In an age of flash discounts and hyper-speed trend cycles, it's easy to forget that every product has a footprint. Behind every low-cost tee are dozens of decisions—from material choice and labor practices to transportation and markup models. While affordability is an important part of fashion’s democratization, it’s equally important to ensure that the true cost isn’t borne by overlooked corners of our supply chain—or by our planet.
This guide isn’t about blame. It’s about awareness. Whether you're a new D2C label or a legacy retailer adapting to a new world, understanding what it really takes to deliver a $9.99 tee can help you build smarter, stronger, and more sustainable practices.
Table of Contents
What Often Goes Unaccounted: The Hidden Externalities
Low price points don’t always equal poor practices—but the risks increase when volume, speed, and cost are prioritized above all else.
Environmental impact: Cotton farming is water-intensive (up to 2,000 liters per tee) and dye processes can impact local ecosystems.
Labor strain: Shorter lead times can unintentionally lead to overtime or subcontracting pressures.
Fabric & energy waste: Lower fabric efficiency, smaller order sizes, or poor sampling cycles can increase landfill waste.
These are not universal outcomes—but they are common enough to merit proactive systems and collaboration.
For Brands: How to Do Better Without Pointing Fingers
1. Build With Your Vendors, Not Just Through Them
Move toward transparent costing conversations that open space for shared problem-solving.
Consider volume forecasting or rolling capacity commitments to reduce last-minute pressure.
Co-create KPIs beyond price—delivery adherence, consistency, even innovation.
💬 Instead of just asking for better prices, ask: “How can we both win in the long run?”
2. Refine Your Sampling & Fabric Planning
Sampling inefficiencies can cost 5–10% of a season’s total budget.
Work with vendors to:
Consolidate fabric bases and trim libraries.
Optimize marker efficiency to reduce fabric waste.
Reduce sampling rounds through clearer tech packs and fittings.
This can reduce timelines, save fabric, and improve cost accuracy—without adding pressure downstream.
3. Rethink Value, Not Just Cost
Instead of lowering prices, consider shifting perception toward value per wear.
A $15 tee with a better neckline, colorfastness, or shape retention can outperform the $9.99 option in loyalty and repeat rate.
Highlight design durability, not just style trends.
Think: fewer returns, better reviews, longer lifecycle.
4. Invest in Smart Certifications and Process Efficiency
Look for OEKO-TEX®, BCI, GOTS, or mill-level process improvements.
Encourage vendors to reduce water use or chemical load—not because they’re at fault, but because future-readiness benefits all.
Provide co-marketing or margin-sharing incentives for those who adopt stronger practices.
5. Tell Better Stories—Responsibly
Transparency doesn’t have to mean harsh exposés or calling out bad practices.
Instead, use storytelling to:
Explain your product journey.
Celebrate small improvements.
Build trust without triggering defensiveness.
Your consumers—and your vendors—will respond better to a shared mission than a shaming narrative.
Closing Note
With over two decades of experience in sourcing and production, I’ve seen first-hand the incredible work many vendors and brands put in behind the scenes. I also know how hard it is to balance timelines, margins, and product goals across seasons.
If you’re navigating any of these questions or just want to understand how things work better—ask away. I’d be happy to share what I’ve seen, learned, or built over the years.
Sources:
The Truth About Fast Fashion – The Guardian
The Hidden Environmental Costs of the Clothes You Wear – World Economic Forum
Cost Breakdown of T-Shirt Manufacturing – Successful Fashion Designer
Radical Transparency and the Everlane Model – The New Yorker
What T-Shirts Really Cost – Gelato Blog
Environmental Impact of Fashion – Wikipedia
Disclaimer
The views expressed in this blog are entirely my own and do not represent those of my employer or any of our partner brands or vendors. The scenarios and observations described here are based on general industry patterns I’ve seen across markets over the years. If any section appears to misrepresent or oversimplify a specific case, I assure you it’s unintentional. I’d be happy to correct or update anything—just drop me an email.